Garden Maintenance - Pruning |
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Pruning a Hedge
Prune shrubs in a formal hedge to resemble a dense, smooth wall. Vigorous, rapidly growing shrubs need more frequent shearing than shrubs that grow more slowly. Dense hedges start with the right pruning techniques at planting time and regular maintenance each year thereafter. Tools and Materials • Hedge shears, either manual or electric • Hand pruners • Tarp • Lawn rake Determine your hedge's habit. When you cut the end off a branch, dormant buds below the pruning cut sprout into new twigs. But not all shrubs have dormant buds, and these shrubs won't grow new twigs if pruned too severely. For this reason, it's best to prune evergreens only into the soft, current year's new growth. Many deciduous shrubs-those that shed their leaves in autumn-can tolerate pruning into old wood from previous growing seasons. Assemble your tools. Use manual hedge shears for small hedges and electric shears for large jobs. If your shears do not have a pruning notch near the base of the blade, you may need hand pruners to cut twigs larger than 1/4 inch in diameter. Use a tarp to collect trimmings or a rake to clean up afterward. Prune at planting time. When you plant a new hedge, prune vigorous shrubs, such as privet, by reducing the length of the branches and shrub height by one-fourth to one-third. Do not prune the tops of slower and denser-growing evergreens and conifers, such as arborvitae, until they reach their desirable height. Establish shape. All branches need adequate sunlight for strong growth. As the hedge grows, prune the sides so the bottom is slightly wider than the top to prevent the upper limbs from shading the lower ones. In snowy climates, give hedges rounded or sloped tops to help them shed snow easily. Prune to maintain shape and fullness. The timing and frequency of pruning depends on the species of shrub and your climate. Prune the new growth of evergreens in late spring and mid- to late summer and avoiding cutting into old wood. Prune deciduous hedges while dormant in late winter and again in summer. Tips Yew (Taxus species) can tolerate more severe pruning than most evergreens. You can rejuvenate or reduce the size of yew hedges by shearing twigs back into old wood. Do not allow vigorous shrubs to grow to their final size before pruning them. To form a dense hedge, prune them as they grow. Although it may take years longer to achieve the desired height, the result is more satisfactory. Photography by Suzanne DeJohn/National Gardening Association |
Pruning a Shrub Rose
Prune your roses to increase blooming and decrease disease and pest problems. Do most of your pruning in early spring just before new growth begins, but remove spent flowers and dead canes whenever they occur. The goal is to keep the center of the shrub free of twiggy, weak growth. Tools and Materials • Hand pruners • Heavy, thorn-proof gloves • Loppers • Bleach and water Collect your equipment. Pruning thorny rose shrubs requires sturdy, thorn-proof gloves and safety glasses to protect your eyes. Look for elbow-length gloves at garden centers. You also need a pair of sharp hand pruners for canes up to 1/2 inch in diameter. Use long-handled loppers or a small pruning saw to cut larger stems and to reach into the center of dense shrubs. Inspect your rose plant. First, identify all dead and damaged canes. Next, locate long thin canes and canes that grow from below the graft union, if the plant is grafted. Lastly, look for canes that rub against or crowd each other, especially if they're growing through the center of the bush. Determine where to cut. Prune canes back to fat, pink buds that face the outside of the shrub. Cut the spindly canes back by half their length or to 2 to 3 feet long. Cut or break off canes completely that grow from below the graft union. Remove diseased canes, and those that rub or crowd, back to healthy, outward-facing buds. If you see brown tissue in the center of a cane when you cut it, prune a little farther back until the tissue is clear and healthy. Make the right pruning cut. Make your cut about 1/4 inch above a healthy bud and at a 45-degree angle. The bud and the high point of the cut should be on the same side of the cane so that water will drain away from the bud. To prevent the spread of disease, clean your pruning tools between shrubs with a mix of one part bleach and nine parts water. Remove spent flowers. To encourage repeat flowering, use hand pruners or scissors to remove flowers as soon as they finish blooming. Cut each flower stem back to a leaf with 5 to 7 leaflets and a healthy bud. Tips In cold-climate areas, wait to prune until the buds just begin to swell in spring. It's easy at this time to tell the difference between healthy canes and buds and those that didn't make it through the winter. Fertilize roses after spring pruning to encourage strong new growth. Photography by Suzanne DeJohn/National Gardening Association |
Pruning a
Evergreens with needle-like foliage, called conifers, usually need pruning only to remove dead, damaged, or diseased limbs. You can also prune to keep their growth compact. Pruning methods vary depending on the conifer's branching habit. Tools and Materials • Hand pruners • Loppers • Safety glasses • Leather gloves Determine branching habit. Conifers with whorled branches, such as pine, spruce, and fir, have layers of branches around the trunk. Species with random branching, such as arborvitae, juniper, yew, and falsecypress, have limbs that occur all along the trunk. Decide reason and season for pruning. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased limbs at any time of the year, regardless of branching habit, by cutting just outside the raised rings at the base of the limb. The branching habit matters most when pruning for compact growth, although both types should be pruned in spring before soft, new growth matures. Pinch candles. Conifers have new shoots called "candles". To promote dense branching and shorter limbs, pinch candles before their needles lengthen and harden. On species with whorled branches, take care not to cut into older wood below the candle because these conifers have few or no dormant buds that can become new limbs. Redirect growth. Conifers with random branching habits can sprout new limbs from older, foliage-bearing wood. Prune into this wood, if necessary, to make the conifer more compactly branched or to change the direction of the branch. To redirect growth, prune back to a side branch that is growing in a more desirable direction. Maintain straight trunk. If two central shoots or leaders exist at the top of a pyramid-shaped conifer, remove one of them to maintain a straight, unforked trunk. If the central leader has died, create a new one by bending an uppermost limb into an upright position and securing it in place with stretchy fabric and a wooden splint. Remove ties when it can stand on its own. Tips Allow pyramid and column-shaped conifers to retain their natural shape by leaving their lower limbs intact. Instead of pruning, mulch around the tree to reduce mowing conflict. Choose naturally slow growing dwarf conifers for small spaces. Many conifer trees species have dwarf varieties available. Photography by Suzanne DeJohn/National Gardening Association. |
Pruning an Apple Tree
As with other fruit trees, the main goal of pruning apple trees is to increase fruit quantity and quality. On young trees, training and pruning establish a healthy framework of branches. Continue pruning once or twice a year to maintain the structure. Tools and Materials • Pruners • Loppers • Pruning saw • Tape measure • Safety glasses • Leather gloves • Notched sticks, various lengths When to prune. The most important time to prune is late winter before you see any signs of new growth. Prune off damaged limbs as well as branches that grow too close to the main branches. Thin out crowded and crossing twigs. Choose limbs to form another layer of main structural branches above the previous layers, and remove competing branches. Trim back by two-thirds the new growth at branch ends and from the central trunk (leader). In midsummer, remove all new shoots that grow straight up or down from the limbs and from the base of the tree. If the main trunk is forked, remove the weaker shoot. Where to cut. Don't randomly shorten branches; remove them all the way to their bases. Make final cuts of 1-inch and larger branches at the "branch collar," the raised bark ridges that encircle the base of the branch where it joins the trunk. Don't cut branches flush to the trunk, and don't leave stubs. To avoid tearing the bark as you cut through a branch that is too heavy to hold up yourself, divide the cut into three steps. Cut first from the bottom, 6 to 8 inches out from the location of the final cut and half way into the branch. Make the second cut from the top, about an inch further out than the first cut. The branch will break off once this second top cut reaches the area of the first bottom cut, and a stub will remain. Remove the stub in one cut through the branch collar. Prune twigs back to within 1/4 inch of a bud that points in the desired direction, usually toward the outside of the tree. Training young trees. On 2- to 3-year-old trees, remove all branches within 30 to 36 inches of the ground and large branches that grow parallel with the main trunk (central leader) at the top of the tree. Choose three or four well-placed branches spaced evenly around the trunk and 6 to 10 inches apart vertically. Branches should form a wide angle with the trunk (not narrower than 45 degrees). These become your permanent scaffold branches. Prune off the other branches. Do this in late winter while the tree is dormant. In subsequent years, add one or two more layers of scaffold branches, spaced 12 to 15 inches apart. Spread the branches. Branches that form a 45 degree to 60 degree angle with the trunk produce more fruit and are less likely to break under stress than ones at narrower angles. To widen the angle of otherwise desirable branches, wedge a notched stick between the branch and trunk to spread them apart. Install the spreaders in late winter and remove in late summer. Tips Use pruners for cutting limbs up to 3/4 inch diameter. Loppers can handle up to 1-1/2 inch cuts. Use a pruning saw to remove larger branches. When apple trees reach a desirable height, cut the central leader back to the uppermost branch and remove subsequent upward-growing shoots. Photography by National Gardening Association. |
Pruning Brambles
"Bramble" the name given to plants in the genus Rubus, which includes the many forms of raspberries(including red, golden, black, and purple kinds) and blackberries (both upright and trailing types). As with any plant, pruning reduces the chance of pest invasion and infection, allows better air circulation and light exposure, and so ultimately, more fruit. Pruning most brambles is a necessity simply because they are rampant growers. Tools and Materials • Pruners • Loppers • Heavy gloves and arm protection How Brambles Grow. It's easier to remember how to prune brambles if you understand how they grow. The plants' underground parts the roots and crown are perennial, but the canes (upright stems) that arise from the crown are biennial, meaning that they live just two years. In its first year, a cane grows vigorously, develops a strong structure, and stores energy. It produces fruit in its second year. After fruiting, the cane declines and dies, though some species called everbearing produce fruit late in their first season and again in their second year. Since the 2-year old canes die after fruiting, you can cut them back to the ground immediately after harvest. Prune carefully to avoid damaging the bramble's crown with your pruners. Each category of brambles has a different growth and fruiting habit, so pruning practices vary. At any time of year, you can remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches and canes. Note: the recommended pruned lengths are for untrellised brambles. If you provide support for your brambles, you can leave longer canes. Summer-Bearing Red and Golden Raspberries. These brambles produce tall, unbranched canes as well as root suckers (canes that spring from the roots rather than the crown of the plant). In late winter or early spring before new growth begins, remove canes until there are eight strong canes per three feet of row. If your brambles grow in a bed rather than a row, thin them to six to ten canes per square foot of row. Another way to measure is to leave an average of four to six inches between canes. In the early spring as growth is beginning, prune back the tips of second-year canes so they stand erect and about 4 to 5 feet high. Black and Purple Raspebriies. Unlike their red and golden cousins, black and purple raspberry canes branch vigorously, and grow in a vase shape, producing few if any root suckers. If allowed to grow unpruned, the long canes that come in contact with soil form roots, giving rise to new plants. In spring, when first-year canes reach 18 to 20 inches tall, prune back the tips. This encourages strong branching. The following spring, trim branches back to 8 to 12 inches. When thinning canes, leave five to ten canes per plant, depending on the soil fertility. Everbearing Raspberries. Despite their name, these varieties also called fall-bearing don't bear fruit constantly. The first year, canes bear fruit at their tips. The following summer, the same canes bear fruit lower down. After fall harvest the first year, remove the cane tip. After the summer harvest the following year, prune the rest of the cane to the ground. Tips Remove dead, damaged, or diseased canes any time of year. Photo by National Gardening Association |
Grape Pruning: Three Systems Grapes must be pruned every year to keep producing because once a cane has fruited, it don't fruit again. Fruits form only on buds that arise from the previous season's growth. Which pruning method you choose depends on the type of grape and variety you have and which seems convenient and efficient to you. For American grapes, the most widespread system is the Four-Arm Kniffen System. For the vigorous muscadine grapes grown in the South, a two-arm version of-the Kniffen System prevents excessive leaf shade. European wine grapes are generally trained to have two permanent arms and are spur pruned. If you have only a few vines and don't want to put up a wire trellis, you can head-train European grapes instead. Pruning is done once a year-after the coldest part of the winter. Be sure to cut back to firm, live wood; the tips are often killed back. Muscadines are usually pruned after the first severe frost in the fall. Training the Vine The first few years are the same for the basic systems, the goal being to produce a strong root system and trunk. Here are the steps: 1.When planting, cut the vine back to two or three buds. It's a good idea to place trellis stakes or posts by the vine at this time; the wire can be put up later. 2.Early in the first summer, pick out the strongest growing cane and let that one grow. As it gets taller, let several side shoots develop off the main one where you intend to place horizontal supports. 3. The following winter or early spring, prune back all canes as shown. Leave three buds on each of two or four lateral spurs (depending on how many arms you want). Put up wire supports. 4. The second summer, tie the side shoots to the wires as they grow. Remove flower clusters - you don't want the vine to fruit yet. Also remove shoots from all buds except those on the spurs. Four-Arm Kniffen System Second Winter Choose four healthy, well-spaced arms to train on the wire for fruit production. If they are very long, trim back to ten buds. Choose four more canes for renewal spurs; cut these back to two buds. Remove all other canes. The following summer, the buds on the fruiting canes will grow into long shoots, each bearing two to three bunches of grapes. The buds on the renewal spurs will also produce shoots; if they are vigorous, let them fruit. If not, remove their fruiting clusters. Third Winter Remove the canes that fruited and choose one replacement from each renewal spur to tie to the wires. Trim to ten buds. Cut back another four canes to form renewal spurs. Your vine should now look approximately as it did a year ago. Repeat each year. Spur Pruning: Two-Arm In this system you develop two permanent arms with spurs that produce fruiting wood each year. Second Winter Remove all canes except the best two; tie these to the support wire. The next summer each bud along the arm will send out a fruiting shoot. Weave these in and out of the upper wires. Third Winter Check the horizontal branches for the strongest vertical shoots and cut each of these back to two buds. These wilt be the fruiting spurs. Space them about 6 to 10 inches apart. Every bud you leave on the spurs will produce a fruiting shoot the following year. Each year, repeat the process. Spur Pruning: Head-Trained For this system, the vine will need only a strong, vertical, 4-foot post for support. 1. Allow the vine to grow to the top of the post and cut just above that point. Tie to the post. Remove any branches below. Next year, let four or five branches grow. 2. In the winter, cut each of the branches back to two or three buds. Remove any weak branches and any on tower parts of the trunk. Buds left on spurs will produce fruiting shoots next year. You can allow more branches to develop as the vine matures so there will be more fruiting shoots each year. A mature head-trained vine can have more than seven main branches. |
Pruning
